Have you ever read the back of a makeup product and wondered what "Phenoxyethanol" or "Cyclopentasiloxane" mean? The INCI list is legally required, but a mystery to most people. Yet, many conventional makeup products contain ingredients that are problematic, especially for sensitive skin.
What is the INCI list?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — the standardized, internationally uniform designation for all ingredients in cosmetic products. It has been legally required in the EU since 1997: all ingredients must be listed in descending order of their weight percentage.
The 8 most important INCI terms you should know
Parfum / Fragrance. A collective term for up to several dozen individual fragrance components — manufacturers do not have to list these individually. According to the European Commission, perfume is the most common trigger of contact allergies in cosmetics.
Parabens. Methylparaben, Propylparaben, and co. are widespread preservatives. They are considered contact allergens and are under discussion due to their hormonal activity.
Alcohol Denat. Short-chain alcohols degrease the skin and can weaken its protective barrier in the long term. Caution: Long-chain fatty alcohols like Cetearyl Alcohol, on the other hand, are skin-friendly.
Methylisothiazolinone (MI) / MCI. Known contact allergens — the EU has severely restricted the allowed concentration in cosmetics.
Paraffinum Liquidum / Mineral oil. Forms an occlusive film on the skin. Can clog pores in sensitive skin prone to impurities.
Cyclopentasiloxane / Dimethicone. Silicones give products a smooth texture. Volatile silicones like D5 are under discussion due to their persistence in the environment.
Synthetic dyes. Identifiable by CI numbers like CI 15985. Natural pigments based on iron oxides (CI 77491/92/99) are considered significantly more tolerable.
BHA / BHT. Synthetic antioxidants that act as preservatives. Suspected of being hormonally active.
The good ingredients: What you should look for
- Panthenol (Provitamin B5): Soothes and regenerates the skin
- Bisabolol: Anti-inflammatory, soothing — naturally derived from chamomile
- Allantoin: Promotes skin regeneration, soothes irritation
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness
- Plant oils (Jojoba, Argan): Nourishing, non-comedogenic, well-tolerated
- Iron oxides (CI 77491/92/99): Natural pigments, very well-tolerated
How to read an INCI list correctly
- Top = a lot: The first 5 ingredients make up the majority of the product
- Bottom = a little: Fragrances and preservatives are often at the very end
- Latin ≠ Chemistry: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is simply sunflower oil
- Patch test: If unsure, test the product on the inside of the forearm, observe for 24 hours
What makes PURE U natural makeup different?
All PURE U Makeup Balm Sticks were developed with a clear goal: no irritants, no unnecessary additives.
- No perfume
- No parabens
- No mineral oil
- Natural pigments based on iron oxides
- Creamy formula based on plant oils and waxes
Whether Blush Balm, Concealer Balm, Bronzing Balm or Highlighter Balm — all formulas are based on the same principle: less is more.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "dermatologically tested" mean?
It means that the product has been tested for tolerability in a clinical study. "Dermatologically tested" is not a guarantee of suitability for allergy sufferers, but a positive indicator.
Is "natural" automatically better?
Not necessarily. Even natural ingredients can cause allergies — essential oils are known allergens. What matters is whether known irritants are present.
How do I know if a product is fragrance-free?
Look at the INCI list: If "Parfum" or "Fragrance" is listed, it is not fragrance-free. Individual fragrance allergens like Linalool or Limonene can also indicate the presence of fragrances.
Conclusion
The INCI list is your most important tool when choosing products. With PURE U, you save yourself the trouble: all products are formulated so you can read the INCI list with peace of mind.
